What is it?

Carnaval‘s history began as a precursor to Lent. Specifically, as a way to indulge, or, overindulge prior to Lent, the 40 days of Christian religious observance prior to Easter. Lent is representative of the 40 days Christ spent in the desert being tempted by the devil. While typically a Catholic observance, Lent is participated in to a degree by many denominations of Christians. Typically lent involves fasting (though many just give up meat on Fridays), prayer, repentance, devotion as well as giving. Solemn stuff.

Enter Carnaval. Think of it as a large party prior to going without, or one last big hurrah. Throughout Spain, there are several towns and regions well known for their Carnaval festivities. Some begin a week prior to lent and other places, such as in the Canary Islands, the festivities encompass the whole month prior. Typically there are parades, music, dancing, costumes and general revelry.

Malaga’s Carnaval

As Malaga is a few train stops away, we chose to head into the city to join the festivities. Malaga’s Carnaval seems to last around 10 days or up to two weeks. There are daily events. In theory, the Carnaval begins with a speech from a prominent person in the community and the “Gods and Goddesses” are introduced. These are persons in remarkably elaborate costumes. Think sequins and feathers. But big. This year, the weather was so bad (epic storms and rain) I heard the opening ceremonies are being held later in the week.

Throughout the week there are competitive singing groups in costumes, children’s activities, a drag queen competition (not quite sure how that one fits in), parades with floats. There’s a battle of the flowers where you’ll get pelted with “petals”, aka confetti. At the end of the week they take a huge anchovy float through the streets and “bury” it. In other words it gets torched on the beach. Complete with a achovy bake. That’s Carnaval in a nutshell.

What day?

While I thoroughly enjoy experiencing as much of Spain’s culture as I can, I do not want to go into Malaga every day for Carnaval. Also, the weather has been garbage and I don’t want to be rained on. Thus, we needed to choose a day. Doug was relatively impartial while I wanted to see the Gods and Goddesses costumes and the parade the most. This year, the opening parade was on day two of Carnival and fell on a Sunday. Generally Sunday is a quiet family day in Spain and few things are open. Exceptions made, to some degree, for Carnaval. Many bars and restaurants were open.

We happily joined another couple and headed into town. Some things are better with friends! Festivities were supposed to start at 1300. Being Spain, we purposely showed up well after that. I’d say the streets were decorated beautifully. The main drag boasted pillars lit up in twinkling lights with banners across the streets that reminded me of Mardi Gras decor. These banners had similar colors of gold, green and purple with a joker type character on each one.

There were a few singing groups that were entertaining to watch. We thought there would be more groups out but either we missed them somehow or were simply in the wrong spot. Kazoo’s were out in full force. Granted, I don’t understand Spanish well enough to fully appreciate what was going on, but the environment was lighthearted and jovial. I believe the singing is meant to be satirical.

After wandering around a bit we decided to grab a drink. Inside. Where the wind wouldn’t be able to reach us. Because, dang, that wind is cold. While enjoying a very heavy stout (which is crazy we found one in a country that’s dominated by very light beers) we chatted it up. And I loved watching the costumed folk walking the streets. So many costumes.

The Parade

Eventually, we headed into Malaga center for the parade. And it did not disappoint. Light crowds lined the streets. Phones out and ready to capture the moment. Here came the Gods!

Each costumed God or Goddess sashaying through seemed more ornate than the last. Vibrant costumes with elaborate embellishments. The Gods must be strong as each one pulled their own extravagant decor.

Intermixed with the Gods were a variety of floats and parade participants. Everything from an Alice in Wonderland theme to a giant sun. A group in Egyptian costumes walked through on stilts. Banners waved through the air. Lights glimmered off sequins and feathers fluttered in the ever present breeze. Everywhere there were smiles lighting up faces and cheers through the crowd.

Randomly, a giant eyeball floated down the street. Reminiscent of a Muse concert Doug and I attended back in Seattle. I don’t care for Muse. In retrospect I’m uncertain why I attended said concert. Maybe FOMO? It was a weird concert complete with giant eyeballs floating over the crowds. The parade had only one enormous eyeball drifting along. Not sure why, but there’s many things I don’t yet understand about Spain. I am trying to absorb and engrain myself as much as possible. I am a guest here. I should hope I try my best to fit in. Thankfully the vast majority of Spanish natives have been nothing but gracious to us. They really are delightful people. I love it here.

Chalking the parade up as a success and having enjoyed ourselves immensely, we went out to dinner prior to wrapping up the night and heading home. Carnival brings a lighthearted, mirthful air to the people and cities. A time for merriment prior to Lent. Although, Semana Santa falls during the final week of lent and with that brings a whole new level of parades. Granted, these seem significantly more ceremonial and dignified.

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